The Art of Fragrance

By Ulrich Lang
December 27, 2020

Virginia Bonofiglio is Associate Chairperson for Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing, at New York`s Fashion Institute of Technology. We wanted to ask her about the effects of the pandemic on our fragrance choices, and what a fragrant future will hold for us?

The pandemic has forced many of us to spend more time at home than ever before. We have also been challenged with new ways in which to work, new styles of what to wear and a lack of human tactile interaction. Our senses are being deprived of stimuli. This, in turn, means that self-care becomes more important than ever. From an olfactive perspective, we probably should consider ‘fragrances which make us feel good.’ Fresh fruity notes, solar florals and maybe some unexpected combinations, to surprise and delight the sense of smell.

Perfume

Many of us are looking to escape to a better place and time. Therefore, notes which are nostalgic, or based more on nature, are good choices. Citrus fragrances always work when you are inside. Hints of citrus say fresh and clean, they are easy on the nose and don't overwhelm the wearer, or the other people sharing the space.

Since we are experiencing a real reduction in the sense of touch, fragrances which are close to the skin should be very popular. These are musky notes, which are bottom heavy and long lasting, and lactonic notes, which enhance the skin scent.

We thought it would be interesting to ask Virginia if there is a certain fragrance that can change your mood even when facing a day of zoom meetings-

Zoom calls have become a way of life for most of us. We Zoom for work, we Zoom to connect with friends and family, we Zoom to party. It would make sense, therefore, that a fragrance would play a role. Your Zoom fragrance should match the purpose of your Zoom meeting, and how you want to feel in your meeting. If you want to feel powerful and in charge, choose a fragrance to help to reinforce that, and consider a spectacular floriental or sophisticated chypre. Remember scent is always tied to emotions and memories. For interactions with friends and family, maybe a warm, cozy scent is called for. If Zoom is how you party, think sensuous and seductive, and spritz a little Kat Burki Tubereuse Eau de Parfum

Eventually when this Pandemic is over, what will we want to smell like? If we have learned anything during these unusual times, it is that health and wellness are important commodities, ones which are essential to hold on to. Scents which speak to good health, wellness and happiness are prime for success. These will be different for every culture, as scent preferences are a cultural phenomenon. Generation Z will demand genderless scents, which are produced responsibly and with sustainable ingredients, and whose use does not harm the environment.

Nourish also spoke to our friend Behnaz Serafpour, she previously had a successful fashion line and has now moved into fragrance.

Orange Blossom

The trigger for her interest, and development into fragrance, was her interest in spaces in a woman’s life, where it made sense to merge the idea of quality, with sustainability in creating a fragrance.

Behnaz remembers her mother’s garden growing up, where she planted roses, jasmine and orange trees for the blossoms. The latter, incidentally, being the foundation for her first fragrance.

Benaz

Natural fragrance is an amazing category, because it benefits the consumer and the environment equally. As Behnaz herself adds “I make only single note fragrances. Three are from flowers that are grown in a Mediterranean type climate (rose, neroli, jasmine), and three are made with botanicals that are grown in tropical climates (vetiver, ylang ylang, oud).

The art of fragrance creation is always evolutionary. The creative perfumer builds on the past to produce something new. There are, however, times when fragrance creation can be revolutionary. This great leap forward is usually the result of discovering some new aromatic material, the genius of a perfumer, or a societal change that forces warp speed movement into the future. 

We don't yet know what the results will be, but we can predict that they will be revolutionary, such as fragrances designed by algorithms, personalizing based on DNA, or scents that only the wearer can smell. What we do know, is that the fragrance industry will adapt and change, and continue to excite the sense of smell.

Ulrich Lang is the co-founder of niche fragrance line www.ulrichlangnewyork.com
He writes a regular column for German Industry Magazine INSIDE BEAUTY 

Healing

This year has been an emotional rollercoaster for many. Across the world we have seen families torn apart, and we have felt a huge sense of loss resulting from illness of all kinds, not just Covid. This virus has created a loss of income and challenged people in ways we never could have imagined.

Lockdowns have resulted in enforced solitude, which has increasingly led to depression and anxiety. For many there is a pervasive sense of being overwhelmed - trying to be parents, carers, teachers - everyone taking on duties over and above their usual routine and, all the while, coping with the challenges of doing this while confined to their homes.

Even prior to Covid, anxiety was particularly prevalent amongst our teens and young adults, and now we see an epidemic of depression and a constant struggle in all areas of mental health.

How did we get here and, more importantly, what can we do next? What can we do to heal our own pain? And how can we best improve the quality of our lives, to ensure that we stay with our heads above water and don’t drown.

Nourish has been looking at various different healing modalities that we thought could help our readers, and over the coming months, we will bring you ideas in all these areas of healing.

We talked with Marion Stone, who lives in Ibiza and offers virtual retreats and course work dealing with the issues of anxiety, pain, trauma, sense of loss and depression. We discussed with her the outline of this healing work, and her passion to inspire her clients to reconnect to their inner power, so we could better understand what she offers.  

The Healing Journey

ParfumeVirginia Bonofiglio is Associate Chairperson for Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing, at New York`s Fashion Institute of Technology. We wanted to ask her about the effects of the pandemic on our fragrance choices, and what a fragrant future will hold for us?

The pandemic has forced many of us to spend more time at home than ever before. We have also been challenged with new ways in which to work, new styles of what to wear and a lack of human tactile interaction. Our senses are being deprived of stimuli. This, in turn, means that self-care becomes more important than ever. From an olfactive perspective, we probably should consider ‘fragrances which make us feel good.’ Fresh fruity notes, solar florals and maybe some unexpected combinations, to surprise and delight the sense of smell.

Many of us are looking to escape to a better place and time. Therefore, notes which are nostalgic, or based more on nature, are good choices. Citrus fragrances always work when you are inside. Hints of citrus say fresh and clean, they are easy on the nose and don't overwhelm the wearer, or the other people sharing the space.

Since we are experiencing a real reduction in the sense of touch, fragrances which are close to the skin should be very popular. These are musky notes, which are bottom heavy and long lasting, and lactonic notes, which enhance the skin scent.

We thought it would be interesting to ask Virginia if there is a certain fragrance that can change your mood even when facing a day of zoom meetings-

ParfumeZoom calls have become a way of life for most of us. We Zoom for work, we Zoom to connect with friends and family, we Zoom to party. It would make sense, therefore, that a fragrance would play a role. Your Zoom fragrance should match the purpose of your Zoom meeting, and how you want to feel in your meeting. If you want to feel powerful and in charge, choose a fragrance to help to reinforce that, and consider a spectacular floriental or sophisticated chypre. Remember scent is always tied to emotions and memories. For interactions with friends and family, maybe a warm, cozy scent is called for. If Zoom is how you party, think sensuous and seductive, and spritz a little Kat Burki Tubereuse Eau de Parfum.

Eventually when this Pandemic is over, what will we want to smell like? If we have learned anything during these unusual times, it is that health and wellness are important commodities, ones which are essential to hold on to. Scents which speak to good health, wellness and happiness are prime for success. These will be different for every culture, as scent preferences are a cultural phenomenon. Generation Z will demand genderless scents, which are produced responsibly and with sustainable ingredients, and whose use does not harm the environment.

Nourish also spoke to our friend Benaz Serafpour, she previously had a successful fashion line and has now moved into fragrance.

OrangeThe trigger for her interest, and development into fragrance, was her interest in spaces in a woman’s life, where it made sense to merge the idea of quality, with sustainability in creating a fragrance.

Benaz remembers her mother’s garden growing up, where she planted roses, jasmine and orange trees for the blossoms. The latter, incidentally, being the foundation for her first fragrance. Natural fragrance is an amazing category, because it benefits the consumer and the environment equally. As Benaz herself adds “I make only single note fragrances. Three are from flowers that are grown in a Mediterranean type climate (rose, neroli, jasmine), and three are made with botanicals that are grown in tropical climates (vetiver, ylang ylang, oud).

Benaz

The art of fragrance creation is always evolutionary. The creative perfumer builds on the past to produce something new. There are, however, times when fragrance creation can be revolutionary. This great leap forward is usually the result of discovering some new aromatic material, the genius of a perfumer, or a societal change that forces warp speed movement into the future. ‘

We don't yet know what the results will be, but we can predict that they will be revolutionary, such as fragrances designed by algorithms, personalizing based on DNA, or scents that only the wearer can smell. What we do know, is that the fragrance industry will adapt and change, and continue to excite the sense of smell.

Ulrich Lang is the co-founder of niche fragrance line www.ulrichlangnewyork.com
He writes a regular column for German Industry Magazine INSIDE BEAUTY 

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